Today I took the Japanese Language Proficiency Test in Takamatsu. To get there, we had to catch an express train at 7 am, which take a little over an hour.

At 6:57, on the train, I got a horrible horrible feeling that something was wrong, so I checked all my things… and it turned out, I had forgotten my Gaijin Card, because I had taken it out of my wallet when I got my reentry permit. You need your ID to take the test.

At 6:58, I frantically rang a friend who I thought was driving in. She didn’t pick up, naturally. So at 6:59, I jumped off the train and ran home to fetch my ID.

Luckily, of course, there was another train a little after 8. I would get to Takamatsu 15 minutes before the test started, but the center was right next to the station, so no big deal. I just got to spend the 2.5 hours before the test officially freaking the hell out. I really started to annoy the train guys on my train, because I kept asking if I was really going to Takamatsu, and I kept calling it a bicycle instead of a train (jitensha, densha, whatever).

Anyway, FINALLY I got to Takamatsu, and a friend was waiting at the station, and I took the test, and all was well. I have no idea if I passed or failed. I don’t care. Well, of course it would be nice to pass, and I’ll take it again (or level 2.5) in July if I didn’t pass, but really…. there is no stress for me now. Nothing is riding on this, and nothing will happen if I do or don’t pass. So ha.

Takamatsu is nice. It has a long shopping arcade with the typical clothing stores with weird names that all sell the same nonsense. It has a bagel shop with insanely delicious bagels. I bought two, and instantly started scarfing down my basil and cheese one as James and I walked along the arcade back to the station.

As we were going back, there were three girls walking towards us. They were foreign girls, really tall, with pretty features, and they were dressed to the nines in Japanese sweet fashion.

As best I can describe it… these girls wear a lot of white, have long styled hair, seem oblivious to the cold, and have an overall “fancy fashion” thing going on. In Japan, I don’t expect the same things from people that I used to. You see somebody wearing a particular outfit, and you can pretty much guess how they will treat you… but young girls are basically all the same, no matter what “genre” of clothing they wear! But when it’s foreigners, it’s hard not to look for that sort of thing… because you’ll usually find it.

This is not to say that I have something against pretty preppy people, or any sort of fashion, but somehow… it has a problem with me? Stereotypes from high school and college of such people, and yet it keeps being true…

So I bothered to look at their faces, and sure enough, they were giving me the side eye as we approached each other. Why?! When the one in the middle jerks her head and flicks her eyes at me, to tell the others to look. Pardon me madam, and let me enjoy my bagel. I just took a ridiculously long test, I am very tired, and I do not appreciate your fancy-pants sneering. Very nearly stuck out my tongue like a goofy 12-year-old, but instead just ate my bagel and enjoyed my walk. Life definitely too short to care.

Back in Tokushima, James and I went to Pasta Michi for some pasta goodness. We wanted to try Cappriciosa despite it being mediocre over-greased pseudo-Italian nonsense, but some fools had rented the place out for a wedding party. Who goes to Cappriciosa for their wedding party? It’s a chain, and not a great one at that.

Anyway, Pasta Michi was amazing. Neither of us had been there, but the rumors were good: giant portions for small prices, they had English menus, the server was nice (but never came back for more water, dessert, plate-clearing, etc). The atmosphere was nice, the bread much more delicious than Cappriciosa, and the salad was enjoyed by me. So, a win! I don’t know if I can eat that much food regularly though. A food coma started washing over me while I was still at the table, and that’s definitely a sign of having eaten too much (and too early, it was only half past 6 when we started).

Now at home, in my pajamas. I only have to really worry about my elementary lesson this week, and find my old Christmas quiz for the first-years. Regular lessons and work, plus Christmas shopping for Orphans, and calling people to remind them to give me their gifts for the orphans.

Ah… If I go to bed now, I can have 9.5 hours of sleep. Mmmmm.

I’ll never understand how my hair can be completely crap all day long, and right before I jump in the shower, I realize it’s finally settled down to normal.

Akka kkkaakakakakakaka

Tonight I bought a cool shirt that says “FISH AND CHIP”, with a heart with the American flag in it. HA! It’s got long sleeves so it’s perfect for the weather. I wore it, and took some of the most hilarious purikura I’ve ever taken.

Purikura is short for Purinto Kurabu (Print Club). It’s a magical photobooth where you choose from a zillion different frames and styles, take about 8 photos, pick the best ones, and then step into another little booth to decorate them with doodles and stamps and backgrounds and all sorts of crazy things. Then you print them out and cut them up and stick them on things!!

Check out this crazy page for one girl’s example of her purikura.

If you ever visit me in Japan (I’m looking at YOU, family!) we will take purikura.

Purikura is super fun, and I don’t know why I don’t do it more often. OH WAIT YES I DO. It’s because I never think to, and when I do, I’m usually by myself. There is a kind of idea… that doing purikura by yourself, and having a picture album full of pictures of yourself alone is kind of a sad thing. Well yeah, but it’s also good to just take a photo by yourself… I get to take excellent series photos, and can make all the decisions about poses and decoration.

And then I get to keep all the photos, too (except for the ones I give away). I thought it would be funny recently to “attack” someone with purikura, and so I took a series by myself and then left them for this person to find (Ok, it’s my gentleman friend. HA! I love saying that). The first set I took was a little disjointed, but the ones I took tonight tell a funny story. I can’t wait to use them.

Now, I have a lot of funny ideas for purikura photo series. I need to get a stuffed dog for the next one, and write a little story line that can be done in 4-6 photos.

Hurr hurr hurr.

Let’s see. Today, I taught at Rogakko, and it was awesome. I did arts and crafts all day, with the 2-3 nensei in Jr. High (8th/9th graders), and the 5/6 nensei in elementary school. We made paper pumpkins and talked about Halloween and decorated a Christmas tree with Halloween cutouts. HAHA! I also had kids finish up their Halloween mobiles and paper maché pumpkins.

Lunch was a delicious piece of fish with skin on. At first it looked dry, but when you bit in, it was sweet and fishy and just the right amount of juicy. MMMMM. Couple that with a bowl of rice, miso soup, and a carton of milk, and you have a perfect lunch. WAY TO GO, JAPAN.

Seriously, I love the food here so much. I can’t believe the things I eat, but it’s soooo good.

The rest of the day I spent studying and preparing for classes. Tomorrow and Thursday, I have no class because of exams. Study party! If I was really smart, I’d take a day off and clean or go get my re-entry permit, or do something productive. But actually, I think that I have a day off coming up soon… a substitute holiday for a weekend I’ll be “working” (going to the school festival. Heck yeah!).

My English club is having a Halloween party on Friday, and on Friday night, I’m heading out west. Saturday morning, we’ll drive even more west, rent bikes, and bike for something like 70 kilometers across the bridge/island system that gets you from Shikoku to Hiroshima prefecture. Oh my yes. They say it’s a 4-7 hour trip one way. I’m super excited, despite having no “serious” bike experience.

I mean, I ride a mamachari. It only has one gear. A mamachari is a “Mama Chariot”, the bike with the big honkin’ basket in the front, and the really 1950’s design. It is the bicycle version of a people carrier, because you can put at least 2 kid seats on it, or put your friend on the back shelf bit (if you are lucky enough to have a shelf on the back). I feel like I should be wearing penny loafers and a pleated skirt when I ride mine. OH WAIT. That is what all students wear every day (and they ride mamacharis). Yup, pretty perfect, Japan.

That’s my days lately. And now, to the store to get potatoes for potato soup!!!

Today is the first non-rainy day this week! (what the heck am I doing online?!)

Oh yeah, I’m listening to Mumford and Sons!!!

(contains a four-letter word, you are warned, darlings)

“Little Lion Man”

“White Blank Page” (Live)

Oh my goodness yes!!

Anyway…

Last week was Silver Week, a big chunk of holidays, all lined up in a row! In the middle of that five-day weekend, my dear friends Dianne and Adrianne joined me in a trip to Osaka and Wakayama prefecture. The main aim of our destination was Koya-san, the big holy mountain in the middle of Wakayama prefecture.

See their Official Website for comprehensive information!

The basic thing to know is that Koya-san has over 200 temples crammed in a tiny space, and is absolutely oozing with religious history, as it is the home/holy place for a sect of Japanese Buddhism.

For us, that meant staying in a temple with very friendly monks, enjoying the peaceful scenery (and the huge crowds) and taking long walks through the woods, surrounded by graves and giant trees and beautiful buildings.

Amusing was the company graves, decorated with giant stone carvings (UCC Coffee had a giant coffee cup. We were disappointed that Sony and Panasonic didn’t have a giant stone television or camera). We were reverent of course at the monuments to the 47 samurai, but it’s difficult to maintain that sort of spirit when you’re participating in this giant zen tourism, and children are pointing at you and saying (with great surprise) “Oh, gaijin!”

But Dianne-gaijin-san and Adrianne-gaijin-san and I did manage to find and appreciate genuine moments. Maybe I’m not Buddhist, but I prayed none the less. And listened to the old women chanting with their prayer books in front of the sand-bowls of billowing incense. Admired the ancient paintings and the zen stone garden, and just let my thoughts wander.

That, I think, is the best that you can and should do.

And now, pictures.

Our first temple

Don’t worry, I was appropriately reverent inside, but you have to start any trip off properly. With jumping.

On the way to Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum. I managed to pick up the giant magic rock by using the basic principles of physics. The deal is, you reach in with one arm into this wooden cage, and try and pick up this rock that’s about the size of half a loaf of bread. It’s amazingly heavy, and while it has grippy bits in its shape, the only way to actually pick it up (that I managed) was to lean over, wedge in my arm, and pick it up like a baby or a set of weights. Ha! I guess I’m lucky now.

And there was a field. A proper one, with real grasses. It was amazing.

And a huge stupa! This is in the “middle” of the mountain top. Koya-san has 8 peaks in its range that surround a central point (where the stupa is) in such a way that it looks like the stupa is in the middle of a (holy) lotus flower. You can’t see the mountain “petals” because of the trees and all, but that’s what they say anyway. It was an amazing building. Going inside reminded me a lot of a temple I visited in Kanchipuram: a giant Buddha and four (compartively) smaller onces, surrounded by pillars with fabulous paintings.

By the end, we were completely Buddha’d-out.

As you may or may not know, I am leaving Tokushima today. I’m off to Kyushu! For hitchhiking!!

Yes, that is right. Hitchhiking Kyushu Adventure starts TODAY. Even though today I will only get as far as Matsuyama, which is still on Shikoku Island. So in reality, it starts TOMORROW. I have a grand old list of things to see, and a week with which to see ‘em. I’ve got a map and a tent and a partner with the wits of a cunning mongoose! I also have an umbrella, and my most winning smile!

I’ve also only got 2 hours to rig up a plant-watering system, clean the apartment, get myself together, and catch the bus. So, on that note, I’ll be back next week with Kyushu photos!

Today’s adventure, thus far, was buying a bus ticket. But, what a bus ticket!

I am going to Matsuyama, in Ehime prefecture, on Friday. I have a one-way ticket there, and from Matsuyama, I will ride the ferry to Kyushu.

I don’t have a bus ticket back to Tokushima. But, I’m just so very not worried about that fact.

Good.

My! So things happened.

I went to Hiroshima. It was quite an experience.

The flowers bloomed. These are by the train station in the countryside.

Japan has a crazy number of flowers everywhere, for a country with practically zero grass.

I rode my bicycle. A lot.

I have no idea what I would do without it. Probably curl up and die. Or have stronger running legs. The important thing is, it has never failed me. I care for it, and it takes me all over creation.

There were cherry blossoms (and jumping). First we saw them in Hiroshima, and then the next weekend in Tokushima, they took us by storm.

So we went and did Hanami, cherry blossom viewing, in the local Castle Park. Even at night, weird green lights would shine at the trees so you could enjoy them in a zombie-like haze.

Also, I got grumpy at Amazon for their whole subversive de-ranking of books kerfuffle (Google it, I’m not going to rehash then entire thing here), and took my business to Better World Books… can I say AMAZING?! Their prices (especially on international shipping) are fantaaaaastic. Also, I received a super-sweet email from them today, to confirm my order.

Hello Emily,

(Your book(s) asked to write you a personal note – it seemed unusual, but who are we to say no?)

Holy canasta! It’s me… it’s me! I can’t believe it is actually me! You could have picked any of over 2 million books but you picked me! I’ve got to get packed! How is the weather where you live? Will I need a dust jacket? I can’t believe I’m leaving Mishawaka, Indiana already – the friendly people, the Hummer plant, the Linebacker Lounge – so many memories. I don’t have much time to say goodbye to everyone, but it’s time to see the world!

I can’t wait to meet you! You sound like such a well read person. Although, I have to say, it sure has taken you a while! I don’t mean to sound ungrateful, but how would you like to spend five months sandwiched between Jane Eyre (drama queen)and Fundamentals of Thermodynamics (pyromaniac)? At least Jane was an upgrade from that stupid book on brewing beer. How many times did the ol’ brewmaster have one too many and topple off our shelf at 2am?

I know the trip to meet you will be long and fraught with peril, but after the close calls I’ve had, I’m ready for anything (besides, some of my best friends are suspense novels). Just five months ago, I thought I was a goner. My owner was moving and couldn’t take me with her. I was sure I was landfill bait until I ended up in a Better World Books book drive bin. Thanks to your socially conscious book shopping, I’ve found a new home. Even better, your book buying dollars are helping kids read from Brazil to Botswana.

So cute. They have my book-buying business from now on!

It was dark, and we were supposed to be going home. We are responsible adults, after all.

But instead, naturally, we were busy wondering if ar0und the next corner we would fall off the mountain and die.

All our fellows were at the bar, making merry. It’s a small bar, and we’d been stuck with these people for 2 days. We’d seen people that had been out of our radar circles for months, been reminded of old friends, old people we didn’t know very well, friendships-that-could-have-been.

This creates an ache sometimes. To realize, standing there, that you are in one circle of friends and not another. To realize that we’ve formed these seemingly unchanging circles. No-one comes in easily, and no-one breaks, or acts without the circle without some sort of social repercussion.

It sucks to realize this.

And so we were driving in the dark, up a mountain. We had run down the highway, along the mountains to the west of the city. A crossroads with another city name made us turn south, and burrow through the mountain via a tunnel. Coming out, we were in a valley. There was water. The entire city, or town, was hugged up in a horse-shoe up and down the mountain side, avoiding the water and clinging to the slope.

We curved around. Followed the road. Selected a turn-off into a park, pretending not to understand the signs.

Don’t enter this park after it is dark.

It’s dark later now, but still, it is dark at 5. At 6, you begin to wonder if you ought to be asleep. At 7, sometimes you ARE asleep, or you feel very defiant as you roam around.

We entered. Started going up. Past the cars parked a Make-Out Point (every mountain has one). Past vending machines, road construction, and 2 other cars. We were alone on the mountain with the gods and the oni and the glowing strips warning us of dangerous turns. We saw the town lights glow below us.

We went up some more. Our ears popped. Suddenly, there was snow. Snow! It was just resting there, without a care in the world. We went up some more. Our ears popped again.

The top was a park, a parking lot with buildings. A giant Sudachi-kun statue smiled creepily at is, illuminated only by our headlights. The sign said 4 kilometers. And still, there were stairs in the mountain, going up. There was more yama, but our little car could not climb stairs.

We could see over the next mountain range, see the city lights beyond it. We could see everything.

Since the road didn’t stop going, we didn’t stop. Slowly, we were going down, but also curving, sometimes up, following smaller mountains. We picked a fork in the road. It got smaller. The guardrails vanished, but the sheer drops did not.

I trusted her, and her driving skills. That is all.

We began to think, we should turn around. But, we didn’t.

Gradually, things changed. Signs appeared, but we were too deep in the naka for them to have an romanized letters. She reads Japanese. We kept going.

It ran across the road, a fat flash of red.

“TANUKI!” we shouted.

Our first wild tanuki sighting.

We saw farms, and other cars, and lights in the distance. A two-lane road, but not the one we came from.
We took it anyway, took another, larger tunnel through the mountain. We didn’t know where would come up, but anyone can tell you how to get to the city. Where we finally recognized ourselves was at the Bizan, the very eastern edge of the mountains.

They’re very long mountains.

A lot has been going on! Sorry I haven’t been keeping up to date. Writing will follow on the subject of orphans, shopping, classes, and so on. But today, I just have two things to say.

Thing one: I went to Kyoto! It was amazing. Since my post about that has quite a few photos, I’m putting it on a separate page. View part 1 here (part 2 to follow).

Thing two:  Today is my last day in Tokushima this year. And let me tell you, it’s a beautiful balmy spring day. It’s 11 degrees C (that 51 F), clear blue skies, and the air is so nice and fresh you just want to shake the hand of the plants that produced it.

I understand that today at home it’s a hilarious 12 degrees F.

See you soon!