This weekend, Ada and I went down to a giant recycle shop in Anan. Actually, to tell the truth, it’s more of a jumble shop than a recycle shop — or maybe, a crazy bazaar. Every kind of Japanese culture or paraphernalia that you could want is in this shop. Katanas, tea sets, crazy masks, kimono, musical instruments, insane porcelain statues (giant Labrador or Betty Boop, anyone?) and so on.

In the back of the purse shelf, we found treasure:

Ada scored the red one, and I bought the black one. Awesome!

These backpacks are hugely iconic, all elementary students carry one. Red is for girls, black is for boys (though I think boys carry red as well). The students near my school have an add-on reflective flap with Sudachi-kun (our prefectural mascot), presumably so the students can be seen in the dark.

Because of all of this, there is pretty much no way that either of us would be able to use the backpack here in Japan. So we will wait. Right now, I’m using mine to store my journals and various art books. It’s incredibly functional and well-designed as a pack, and I can’t wait until I can start using it to cart my gear around.

Though, now that I think about it, I won’t be doing the same activity (biking to work with a sack full of materials) back in the states every day. So while it’s a great bag, it might not get the same amount of use when I am in a place where I can use it.

Ah well.

I also bought Kanji Sono Mama for my DS. It’s great because
a. It’s cheaper than an electronic dictionary
b. I can write kanji into the screen and it looks them up for me, simple as pie!
c. I bought it at Book Off, so it was maybe 1000 yen less than brand new. ROCK!!
So far, it’s pretty great. I just draw in the kanji or the furigana, and then choose my word. LOVE!!

Today was Heath and Sports Day, so I had off. I went to a traditional music concert affiliated with my school. However, because I had done the same thing the day before for 3 HOURS, we only stayed for 4 performances, and then snuck out. There is only so much Japanese music I can take.

Yesterday’s concert was quite good, don’t get me wrong. It was 3 hours of sword dances, Awa Odori, traditional singing by pensioners, new instruments I had never seen before, and finally, a giant group playing and singing this song:

Hanami Odori. This is part one of three, if you’re really into it, here are the other two parts:

We just finished up the piece in my lessons 2 weeks ago. I can play the whole thing, and sing most of it (though not at the same time). My singing is really crap, but it gets better… I can’t believe that I’ve been learning shamisen for a year now! Crazy. Sorry I don’t have a video of myself doing it… but you wouldn’t hear the singing in that case.

At any rate.. that is that lately! The end!

Today is the first non-rainy day this week! (what the heck am I doing online?!)

Oh yeah, I’m listening to Mumford and Sons!!!

(contains a four-letter word, you are warned, darlings)

“Little Lion Man”

“White Blank Page” (Live)

Oh my goodness yes!!

Anyway…

Last week was Silver Week, a big chunk of holidays, all lined up in a row! In the middle of that five-day weekend, my dear friends Dianne and Adrianne joined me in a trip to Osaka and Wakayama prefecture. The main aim of our destination was Koya-san, the big holy mountain in the middle of Wakayama prefecture.

See their Official Website for comprehensive information!

The basic thing to know is that Koya-san has over 200 temples crammed in a tiny space, and is absolutely oozing with religious history, as it is the home/holy place for a sect of Japanese Buddhism.

For us, that meant staying in a temple with very friendly monks, enjoying the peaceful scenery (and the huge crowds) and taking long walks through the woods, surrounded by graves and giant trees and beautiful buildings.

Amusing was the company graves, decorated with giant stone carvings (UCC Coffee had a giant coffee cup. We were disappointed that Sony and Panasonic didn’t have a giant stone television or camera). We were reverent of course at the monuments to the 47 samurai, but it’s difficult to maintain that sort of spirit when you’re participating in this giant zen tourism, and children are pointing at you and saying (with great surprise) “Oh, gaijin!”

But Dianne-gaijin-san and Adrianne-gaijin-san and I did manage to find and appreciate genuine moments. Maybe I’m not Buddhist, but I prayed none the less. And listened to the old women chanting with their prayer books in front of the sand-bowls of billowing incense. Admired the ancient paintings and the zen stone garden, and just let my thoughts wander.

That, I think, is the best that you can and should do.

And now, pictures.

Our first temple

Don’t worry, I was appropriately reverent inside, but you have to start any trip off properly. With jumping.

On the way to Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum. I managed to pick up the giant magic rock by using the basic principles of physics. The deal is, you reach in with one arm into this wooden cage, and try and pick up this rock that’s about the size of half a loaf of bread. It’s amazingly heavy, and while it has grippy bits in its shape, the only way to actually pick it up (that I managed) was to lean over, wedge in my arm, and pick it up like a baby or a set of weights. Ha! I guess I’m lucky now.

And there was a field. A proper one, with real grasses. It was amazing.

And a huge stupa! This is in the “middle” of the mountain top. Koya-san has 8 peaks in its range that surround a central point (where the stupa is) in such a way that it looks like the stupa is in the middle of a (holy) lotus flower. You can’t see the mountain “petals” because of the trees and all, but that’s what they say anyway. It was an amazing building. Going inside reminded me a lot of a temple I visited in Kanchipuram: a giant Buddha and four (compartively) smaller onces, surrounded by pillars with fabulous paintings.

By the end, we were completely Buddha’d-out.

Today at Rogakko, I taught the students the story of Dreamcatchers, and we did arts and crafts. Later, we had a Ballet workshop with the entire school.

Lieutenant, please file today under “Super Special Awesome”.

Other great stuff:

I climbed the Bizan in the dark, and was not eaten by wild dogs.

I learned how to play a song from “The Little Mermaid” on the ukulele.

The weekly home-cooked meals and ladies-only movie nights have begun again at the Shogakko Queen’s house. Viva! The Queen, the Fashionista, the Kiwi, and myself gather for delightful evenings. Ho har har.

Daniel Radcliffe is apparently going to star as Dan Eldon in the movie about Dan Eldon’s life.

The Wizard of New Zealand has a great wikipedia page.

I get enough sleep every night despite crazy dreams, because I am not up till all hours of the night worrying about things.

In a sudden burst of creativity, I started scrapbooking and making collages again (see: Dan Eldon).

The new JETs came, I realized how much more capable I’ve become as a person, and, aspiring after the archetypal French Girl, to realize that I can only improve and grow.

In other words, it can only get more fabulous!

Oh my God oh my Gawwwwwwd, Awa Odori starts this Wednesday!! I’m so nervous!!!

o________O;;;;;

Our last practice was tonight.
I’ve been practicing really really hard!
So hard, that I pulled something… my right leg is all screwed up, as is my lower back. I have to stretch really well every day just to be able to do normal stuff. Ow ow ow. いたいいいい

But oh my goodness is it ever exciting! I can’t wait to wear my purple kimono and my giant taco-shaped hat and dance like nuts! Every day now I wear geta when I’m not at school.

And speaking of not being at school…
Today I woke up, and it was typhooning. We were getting hit by the edge of tropical storm Etau, and it was amazing!!! So much rain, so much lightening and thunder!!! Nature is really really powerful!

I thought to myself, “Oh, I can’t be bothered to go through this storm just to sit pointlessly at my desk”. So I mailed my supervisor to ask for holiday leave. Stupid! I should have said “Oh no, a typhoon! Abunai!”

But now I have to take one of my holiday days. Mottainai! What a waste!!

Although, it did clear up and I could have gone in for half a day, but I am a lazy bum and couldn’t be bothered.

Yesterday I saw an amazing musical play put on by a local musical theater group. One of my students was in it, surprisingly.

The (original) story was about three girls who meet two girls who may or may not be magical, and for some reason, they decide to go back in time on a flying broom (one of the girls is a janitor, one is a makeup artist, and one just likes history for some reason?). So they go back and meet somebody who may or may not be Genghis Khan, and help some people get a scroll and a princess, and then there was a huge song and dance number.

Then, they went to America to try and stop Kennedy from being assassinated. For this half the play, almost everyone spoke a ton of English, and they were all pretty dang good with their accents and so on. The girls made a jazz group, and performed for Jackie O, and tried to warn her. Jackie O said she would tell Kennedy, but she lied! (for some reason, she was a complete bitch, and she couldn’t see the two magical girls. Who knew?)

Undaunted, the girls use their showbiz connections (3 more extremely tall girls in sparkly Supreme’s style dresses) to get an audience with Kennedy. They warn him about getting shot, but he says that danger is part of being President, and the people of Texas are his people too, so he can’t avoid the trip. Realizing they can’t stop him from taking his path, the cast sings “Mine Eyes Have Seen The Glory” in a very moving style, giving Kennedy one last performance.

In the audience, we had already looked at each other several times to say “No way”

But wait, there was more to come. John and Jackie got on their car and were on the motorcade, and the girls came and stopped time, to try and save him again. They told JFK that they were from the future, and that we had a black President, and that there was a bullet in his future. But JFK said that he was the President of the United States of America, and he was going to do his job.

Then he was shot. (In the audience, we looked at each other and said “No Way” again).

Then the janitor girl held up a flag in a spotlight against the curtain, and the Supremes stood in the balcony and sang something along the lines of “Where have you gone, JFK”. (I’ve been unable to figure out what song they actually sang).

Then they went back to the present time, accidentally inspiring young Steven Spielberg to invent E.T. THE END.

Like I said. It was amaaaaaaazing. Not often am I really weirded out and very moved at the same time.

File that under “Oh, Japan”.

I am, indeed a dancing fool.

It’s ok. I can live with that!

So, as I said, I went to Komatsushima Matsuri. At first I was in a bit of a mood because it was very hot, and humid, and the people I was to meet didn’t show for an hour. I don’t like being made to wait, and once I DO start waiting, I don’t like to break my solitude when everyone else shows up! It’s a silly cycle.

My friends appeared and we got down to the business of watching the thing that were going on. I had already seen 40 minutes of hula dancing, so while we listened to a bunch of speeches from dignitaries and navy guys, my friend (The Fashionista) and her Japanese guy friend (City Boy) went to look at some of the booths. I stayed in the shade and waited for the next attraction, which was going to be the gaijin (foreigner) Awa Odori dance competition.

I knew there was trouble when I saw the Fashionista talking and gesturing with some guy wearing a fair badge. City Boy walked back and told me that the Fashionista was now entered in the contest. Then they all started gesturing at me, and suddenly I realized that I was entered in the contest too.

Oh boy.

Only for a minute did I think “Oh heck no”.

Then I thought “Oh heck yes, I am going to kick ass and dance hard. And I am all out of ass. Let’s do this!”

We danced round and round a stage, lots of college students from China, Mongolia, Indonesia, the Philippines, and Colombia. And two chicks from America. We danced Otoko Odori (men’s dance) which was newish to me, and what the heck, I danced HARD CORE.

And I won the whole dang thing!! 7 prizes, and I got the top one!!! Which was an ice-cream maker / blender. HECK YEAH!!

The trick to winning? Putting all your gumption into it, grinning like a dancing fool, and just being totally willing to dance in front of an entire town / video cameras. Hopefully it will end up on the news or something har har har.

My only regret is not shoving my camera in someone’s hands before I climbed up on the stage. Boo!

Chalk it up to another “Oh Japan, you so awesome” moments.
(I love dancing Awa Odori!)

Tonight at Awa Odori practice, I wore my geta for the first time.

Remember when you buy a new pair or a poorly made pair of sandals, and the bit that goes between your big and second toe chafes from here to Dixie?

Yes, well it’s like that, except you are putting all our weight on that chafe, and also dancing in time and waving your arms.

A whole new kind of pain.

Tonight’s practice was endurance mode, just dancing up and down and up and down the park pavement. I made it as far as I could, and then decided that since I was sucking so bad because the pain was so distracting, I should probably just change back to my sneakers.

I danced maybe 15 steps in my sneakers before practice ended. I didn’t have a watch or phone, so I didn’t know the time.

All in all, I’m pleased with myself for making it that far.

At the rest point in the middle, one of the really genki men’s dancers came up to me and told me all about how my rhythm was ok, but my power sucked, actually, no, my power was making my rhythm suck, and so I should kick my knees up higher.

I wanted to say “Yes, you put the geta on and see how much genki YOU have!!” but what I really did was agree with everything he said, say “Ossu” (“push / I’m gonna fight hard!”) and try my best. After all, he was right. My rhythm and power were sucking big time.

My old-lady friend chatted me up at break time too. We talked about the weather, and where Supervisor-teacher was, and how dancing was fun. Maybe 75% of the stuff she says to me I don’t understand, but dammit… if I’ve learned anything in a year, it’s that smiling, nodding, and applying the old ganbare (do your best) spirit will get you far.

At the end of practice, I talked with the kids. They wanted to know where Supervisor-teacher was, and to tell me what a good dancing gaijin I am, and to basically joke around. I told them I was going home to eat, and they told me if I ate after 8 pm, I would get fat.

I said “Ah, metabo desu ne” (“Yeah, I’ll get metabo”) and they busted a nut laughing at me, then said “kyotsukete” (“Be careful!”) and sent me on my way.

Thanks, kids, You’re the most awesome.

Now I have to run to the grocery store and sort some dinner. I rearranged most of my furniture today in a brief fit of industry, but now all the bits and bobs of moving are all over the floor and bed and table… I don’t really have a place to eat or sleep. Yet. And I need a shower.

Ahhh.

I enjoy being busy!

As I may or may not have mentioned to various folks, I joined Awa Odori!

More specifically, I joined a ren, Kabuki ren, and practice three nights a week in the park. It’s freaky to think that Awa Odori is only a month and a week away.

For your enjoyment, here are some nice A.O. clips:
This clip is a short street dancing clip from Tokushima. Whee!!

This one is longer, and much more interesting. It’s from the Awa Odori Kaikan (cultural center) in Tokushima, and in it you can
a. hear the music better
b. see men’s dancing!

I’ll be doing the women’s dance (onna odori), as seen at the beginning, and around the 5 minute mark. But man, I want to do the men’s dance! It looks so cool!! The leaders showed me how to do the steps last Saturday, and man, it’s HARD. It takes a lot of leg strength (whereas the women’s takes arm strength, and the ability to keep going despite having your ribs all wrapped up in a kimono).

As the second video progresses, you hear more and more of the music. Now you can finally understand what I’m talking about. This is what I hear every weeknight between the hours of 7:30 and 9, except it is being played by at least 4 different groups at the same time 200 yards from my door, and is bouncing and echoing off the buildings. It’s fast and furious and powerful music, but man, once at flute tune is in your head, it NEVER GOES AWAY. EVER.

Related to all this; today I bought all the gubbins I’ll need for my kimono.

Tada!
These are all the bits and bobs to tie my kimono on, keep the ends clipped, fill out the obi, secure the obi, soak up the inevitable sweat, etc etc.

So, that’s all for now. Lucky Waving Cat says Goodbye!!

Nyah!

My body is all out of whack lately… it comes from sitting around at a desk all day, and not having the gumption to go outside and run miles.

But that will all change, because now I am a yoga lady.

That’s right! Yoga!

Last night my friend The Kiwi took me to a Buddhist temple near where I take my shamisen lessons. We walked our bikes past the old graves, through the gates, past the main temple, and to a back room. The yoga was done with by candle light (and some regular lights) in a quiet neighborhood. It was called slow balance yoga, and was taught by a nice young woman.

We did various stretches and poses for an hour and a half, and it kicked my ass. No joke, this yoga is not easy stuff. I am a giant ball of hurt today (not because I strained anything, just from the fact that my muscles aren’t used to be worked like that).

Ouch ouch ouch. I paid for 4 lessons, to make sure that I’ll actually keep going each week. Way to go, Japan! You made me all interested in working out!

As you may or may not know, I am leaving Tokushima today. I’m off to Kyushu! For hitchhiking!!

Yes, that is right. Hitchhiking Kyushu Adventure starts TODAY. Even though today I will only get as far as Matsuyama, which is still on Shikoku Island. So in reality, it starts TOMORROW. I have a grand old list of things to see, and a week with which to see ‘em. I’ve got a map and a tent and a partner with the wits of a cunning mongoose! I also have an umbrella, and my most winning smile!

I’ve also only got 2 hours to rig up a plant-watering system, clean the apartment, get myself together, and catch the bus. So, on that note, I’ll be back next week with Kyushu photos!

This weekend, come hell or high water (or in Tokushima’s case, wind and rain) we have Hana Haru Festa. It’s a matsuri, with a grade of a C or a B- in my book. It’s got all the things, such as singing and dancing and takoyaki, but there is a lack of festival spirit and interactive opportunities. Still, it is indeed happening right outside my window, and I enjoyed some very nice Awa Odori dancing the other day.

The thing about any sort of matsuri or festival is that it puts one in a right old festival spirit. It came out really wonderfully for me last night.

Having gone out on Friday night for a charity concert and later karaoke, I was already tired (no matter how late I go to bed, I will wake up by 7:30 at the latest. It is unbelievable). But after a day of quietly being about town, I slowly built up to the night: a nap, a bus ride, some shaved ice, dinner, and finally a cab ride to the city.

We began at Casanova’s, a horseshoe shaped karaoke bar where free wine is usually on the platter and we were the only patrons. We had our fill of puffed wheat and songs, and went off in search of the next adventure, which was chatting outside a very loud dance party that… well, it made me a bit nervous and overwhelmed when I was inside the bar, so outside was really quite preferable.

Lounging about, well past midnight, I decided it was high time for something more substantial than bar-snacks, and headed down the street to the combini. But I never made it, because I began chatting with a woman from New Zealand who was busking in the alley with a guitar. She was great! We talked it up and then sang a bunch of songs together, chatted and danced with various people walking buy, and someone bought us takoyaki from the stall down the street and we sang a Beatles song specifically for him. She’s been in Japan for 20 years, and was just the friendliest darn person ever. Apparently, she, or someone else, busks that alley every Friday and Saturday.

When I walked away, I felt light on my feet and glad in my heart.

So today, the weather is sunny and the wind is high, and Awa Odori music has been slamming through my windows since 8 am. But I don’t feel bad for not going out and participating, because I had my own matsuri in a midnight alley, and it suited me just fine.